It’s easy to dismiss offal. I did until St John. The restaurant that is rather than the apostle. I haven’t a big repertoire but I do like kidneys. They were always the mainstay of breakfast in grand houses and genteel clubs alongside kedgeree. I guess a throwback from the Raj. Last week some lambs kidneys caught my eye in the butcher. Eight of them came to less than a pound. A bargain supper abounding in all things nutritious. But the best of it is that if you prepare them with love you can serve them haute cuisine.

Cut out anything that doesn’t look like kidney and slice them long ways. Lightly coat them in flour and season. Drop them into a frying pan of slightly sizzling butter and cook them for a few minutes each side. Slosh a large (great-aunt size) glass of Oloroso sherry into the pan (stock but it isnt rich enough for me and the sherry gives the dish a caramelised flavour). Cook the liquid off quickly and in the last moments throw in a handful of chopped tarragon and enough cream to give it a rich velvety consistency.

Serve it mounted on a couple of rounds of toasted brioche (it needs to be something light and posh that will soak up the cream sauce. Use your most beautiful plates. Fit for a queen’s birthday.