This is a wonderful cheap cut of meat, full of rich flavours. You need to make this the night before or even a few days ahead and keep it in the fridge. It’s the perfect dish to bring out to a big dining table surrounded by friends.

Chop up some fennel, any old way really, and braise it in a bit of butter and oil. Let it caramelise a little. Slice the preserved lemons and mix them with chopped garlic and mustard seeds (both lightly toasted), and grate in the rind of a lemon. Let that mixture infuse. The salt and sweet flavours of this dish are

Rub the chopped oxtail all over with oil and lemon juice, black pepper and salt and a little flour. Fry it gently until the meat is browned on both sides. Then fill a roasting dish or cast iron pot with the meat and cover it with the lemon and fennel mixture stuffed into every nook and cranny. Next top it up with white wine and leave it covered sitting in the oven overnight at the lowest temperature setting. In the morning you should have fragrant lumps of tender meat with masses of moisture and flavour. About an hour before lunch roast it in the hottest oven, so it literally caramelises on the outside surface.

Serve it with piles of mashed potatoes, caramelised carrots and curly kale quickly wok fried in salt and lemon juice.