m e n u

Writer and Cook

Philip Dundas

Philip's diary

Duck Confit

Sometime when the slow march out of winter begins. It’s still cold and wet but we can start looking forward now to that wonderful March day when the light evenings return. The weather always urges me to re-stock the larder like Ratty’s pantry in Wind in the Willows. Full of delightful treats that will emerge as the […]

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At what price?

Much good has been done in the world of eating and cooking. In the last ten years, crusaders for more authentic culinary experiences have had an enormously positive impact on the food industry. Artisan producers are now able to find a market for their carefully created produce and good husbandry means we can buy food […]

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Game consommé with greens

But one of the best things about these wild winter birds, is that they produce a nourishing stock full of natural antioxidants and vitamins, vital for keeping good health in these wintry months.

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Christmas Recipes

For those still toiling behind their laptops on Christmas Eve. And who look forward with eager dread at making the festive dinner tomorrow, I thought I would just offer some useful tips for escaping disaster and ensuring some happy results. Some of these may seem obvious, some less so.

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#FOODUNLOCKED

For a nation that thinks so highly of itself, our relationship with food is lamentable. While we enthusiasts are enveloped in clouds of gin mist, supping fermented grouse foam and foraging for our bowl of morning grains, most of the nation is suffering from a deeply dysfunctional experience of eating and cooking. I’ve been working […]

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Radish Barcelona

BOOK HERE. Celebrate on the terrace at Yök Casa & Cultura in the city centre. From this wonderful place you can enjoy wonderful company, great food and amazing views over the Catalan capital. Our cooking philosophy is simple. Source the best ingredients from the earth, the sea and the fields and find ways for their flavours, […]

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Oxtail with Preserved Lemons

This is a wonderful cheap cut of meat, full of rich flavours. You need to make this the night before or even a few days ahead and keep it in the fridge. It’s the perfect dish to bring out to a big dining table surrounded by friends. Chop up some fennel, any old way really, and […]

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LEMON CHICKEN WITH FENNEL

We get caught in a ‘sunday’ roast mentality – saving the sounds and sensations for the seventh day. But roasting up in the middle of a dreary week can really bring cheer to the kitchen and makes wonderful leftovers.

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Coming in from the Wild

We should beware of creating demand that results in unscrupulous lines of supply; herds of foodies spilling into finely balanced habitats, greedily gorging on rediscovered delicacies, or getting others to kill wild game to satisfy their curious palates.

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The Greedy and Lazy Diet

Greed and laziness, that’s what the magazines should be teaching us to avoid rather than making up a complete load of rubbish about detoxing that my liver does perfectly well for itself.

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Passion for Ingredients

Many chefs, albeit prodigiously talented, if they actually write their own books, simply recount what they cook and instruct us to do the same. Other books are written by cooks who bring the ingredients to life and inspire us with the pure possibilities of what we can learn about them. Dino Joannides’ Semplice, Sabrina Ghayour’s […]

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A Very Edinburgh Story

When I was a boy, that is roughly thirty years ago, expelled from school and cast from my parents’ favour, I got a job as a pot washer in Bell’s Diner, a real burger joint, long before the current craze, run by the gorgeous hippy Bill Allan. He and it are still around. The restaurant […]

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There’s nothing to eat

Next time you look in the fridge and think it’s empty, look again. Tonight for dinner, spaghetti con gamberi e pesto ricotta salata. Anyone hungry yet?

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An appetite for politics

Two big ideas stopped in their tracks this week. Firstly, PipsDish has closed its doors. The no-menu, social dining experience which was intended as a three-month long culinary showcase for my book Cooking without Recipes, ran in three London venues for 4 years. Like many good ideas, it ran its course. Secondly, of far greater […]

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London’s new restaurant quarter

Move over Peckham and Dalston, London’s surprising new restaurant quarter is in Highbury. It’s close to my heart because my first real pop-up restaurant was at the Marquess Tavern, round the corner in Canonbury.  Four years ago there was nowhere to eat in Islington and I said so on this very blog. At the time […]

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Dog’s Dinner

It is not against the law to have dogs in restaurants. Despite what many stupid people tell me when I walk into restaurants and cafés with my small, long-haired, four-legged friend. Lots of places do choose not to allow dogs but in my experience they are less relaxing places to be anyway. A well-trained dog […]

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REAL HOME COOKING

Home cooking is a habit. You have to wear it, get familiar with it. You’ll never learn this from watching telly or reading a book. And that’s why home-cooking is different. For me it’s defined by three things. The ingredients you have available, the circumstances in which you find yourself and the people you are […]

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The Big Gay Supper Club with the Albert Kennedy Trust

We are so proud to announce that as part of our community program, The Kitchen Table Project, we will be partnering with the Albert Kennedy Trust, a charity who help transition young and vulnerable LGBT people into a stable and safe environment. Beginning mid-April 2014, PipsDish will provide a space, every Wednesday, for these young […]

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48 Hours in Rome

There used to be a time when I came back to London worrying about how long it would be before I saw a great market, or tasted simply cooked wonderful ingredients again. 48 hours in Rome is hardly long enough to be an expert, but it certainly reminds me that what we have in the UK can be every bit as good. Now that is a new civilization.

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Fish Stew

This week we had sustainable fish stew. It’s a quick and easy way to feed a gang of hungries on a Friday night and doesn’t need much else but some good bread and wine. Like all stews, you need balance, rich liquid and a range of potent flavours steaming from your pot.

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Marmalade, Baked Ham, Duck Confit

January: after a month of festive eating, we need some practical foods that will help us through these dreary months.

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Eating in Venice

My feeling is that in Venice you need to seek out dishes, rather than places. Equally determined to avoid the withering looks and contempt of waiters serving menus turisticos, I wanted something the locals would eat. The insider knowledge.

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Christmas Pudding

A few tips on alternative ways of using Christmas pudding this year.

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Foie Gras Faux Pas

In support of Souixsie Souix’s words against Fortnum’s foie gras sales.

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Covent Garden Opening

So, we’re open at Covent Garden. Little did I think when I dragged old straw bales into the garage at Islington, that 2 years on I’d be here in the West End.

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